![]() ![]() But I've never had the self discipline to try it. The squirt on and blotting off of the oil/MS mix would both clean any dirt and wear particles away and leave a coat of oil for the next ride. I've often thought that if I were to religiously squirt some MS and oil mix thinned more to a water like consistency on the chain and wipe it off after EVERY RIDE that it would clean and lubricate at the same time and I would never again have to officially "clean" my chain. Otherwise a thinner bar oil would be every bit as good for riding in nicer conditions. Although I like the thicker bar oil because once the mineral spirits dries away the resulting oil film will be more tolerant of riding in the wet. It is every bit as good as the thinned bar oil. While it's dripping if you clean the cassette and chainrings by the time you're done the chain will be ready to wipe and mount. Following that a quick wipe with a paper towel and it's ready to remount. Likely that'll take about 5 to 10 minutes. Then hang it over the pot to drain until it's dripping about once every few seconds. If your mixture is already about the consistency of motor oil then a simple dunk and swish will allow the oil to penetrate into every nook and cranny just fine. Your soaking for a couple of days and draining for a couple of days is WAY overkill. So you see, the ratio is up to the person, the thickness of the base oil and the way the person uses it. Then once the MS dries you're left with a light coating of thick oil. Doing that would carry any dirt and wear particles away with the excess. Also a thinner mix can be used as a light duty cleaner if it is applied and then blotted away with a paper towel or rag. As such and since the idea is to create something that is easy to allow to drip drain and to make it easier to wipe off the excess it's a formula that is very much up to the thickness of the oil being used as the base and how thick or thin each person wants the final product. It also makes it far, far easier to wipe off the ecess from the outside. The final mix ratio is pretty much open to whatever you want to use. The mineral spirits is just to thin the oil to make it so you don't need to stand around and wait for it to soak in or to work it in and leave your hands all sticky with the honey like oil that I've got. With the thin one I would not even add any MS to it as it was already quite watery. It's not much thinner than raw STP or similar oil treatments as they pour from the can if that helps you to visualize what I'm talking about. I've got the thick one that takes forever to pour. One is thick like Rogers syrup or mollases and the other about the same as motor oil. I've seen two different brands of bar oil. So why is this not as good as diluting the bar oil like you guys recommend? I'm going to put a clean, dry chain in the bottom of a coffee can, pour straight bar oil over it until it's covered, leave it for a couple of days (agitate it occasionally), hang it up to drain/dry for a few days, wipe and install. I just opened a new quart of bar oil-it's really not that thick-so it would seep into the innards of the chain, right? On the 5600 chains I use, i don't think the rollers are hollow, so there's no air to displace. You say 1 part MS to 2 parts oil, another guy says 4 parts MS to 1 part oil-How are these widely disparate formulas arrived at? A quick dip will have it running entirely through the chain since there's nothing where it has to soak in through any pores or any such thing.If "there's nothing where it has to soak in through any pores or any such thing" why bother diluting the bar oil in the first place? I always feel just a little happier with bearings I’ve cleaned with mineral spirits.I use about 1 part MS to two parts oil and that thins it out enough to easily soak into the chain. I read somewhere that the quick evaporation of acetone could actually be a detriment, and I might have believed it. ![]() But given an area that I don’t have to worry about smelling up (garage), I actually prefer mineral spirits. Although the fumes of acetone are something you don’t want to be breathing a lot of for a long time, in general I prefer the odor of acetone compared to my mineral spirits, so if I’m indoors (kitchen) it’s acetone. I avoid the stuff just in case, since most nail polish removers contain conditioners and such. There’s ONE type of nail polish remover that MIGHT work as long as they’re not just tricking you with their “100% acetone” label (who knows, maybe that’s the name of the product, not a description of the contents!). Nail polish remover, just make sure it’s 100% acetone. ![]()
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